I list my finest shakuhachi for sale here which are mostly root ends, however,
I understand the necessity for economically priced shakuhachi so I also make shakuhachi
from the pole portions of bamboo and list them frequently on my eBay here.
I also accept trade-ins for life so you can trade any shakuhachi to put toward any other shakuhachi.
Jinashi - the shakuhachi of the Komuso monks
I make "jinashi" shakuhachi which are shakuhachi that utilize the natural inner dimension of eachunique piece of bamboo. Jinashi are the shakuhachi that were used by the Komuso monks
of The Edo period and their predecessors. I continue in their footsteps by making jinashi shakuhachi
for the playing of Edo period "honkyoku" and the honkyoku derived from these original pieces.
You can read more directly below by clicking the "toggle boxes" or continue to the shakuhachi for sale.
policies on shakuhachi sales
30 day audition
Lifetime free repairs and alterations on all root end shakuhachi
Lifetime trade in option on all my shakuhachi
Lifetime free repairs and alterations on all root end shakuhachi
Lifetime trade in option on all my shakuhachi
my Japanese madake bamboo
It is quite an experience to dig up bamboo in the cold winter months and, much later, play the first note on a shakuhachi. It is common for shakuhachi makers to buy all or most of their bamboo, however, I prefer to harvest all of my own. The best bamboo for shakuhachi is Phyllostachys bambusoides, also known as "madake" or "giant Japanese timber bamboo". It is not the best bamboo for shakuhachi because it is synonymous with Japan but rather because of its physical characteristics.
While madake bamboo can grow in a wide variety of climates it grows best for shakuhachi in areas such as The South Eastern US, like the Carolinas where I live. These places share similar climates with Japan. The "micro-climate" such as the soil, the lay of the land, and how much sun the bamboo receives, all determine how the bamboo will grow and if it will be suitable for shakuhachi. Bamboo is like a chameleon which is why only the new shoots can provide a 100% positive ID when expertly examined in the spring.
While madake bamboo can grow in a wide variety of climates it grows best for shakuhachi in areas such as The South Eastern US, like the Carolinas where I live. These places share similar climates with Japan. The "micro-climate" such as the soil, the lay of the land, and how much sun the bamboo receives, all determine how the bamboo will grow and if it will be suitable for shakuhachi. Bamboo is like a chameleon which is why only the new shoots can provide a 100% positive ID when expertly examined in the spring.
madake shoot
madake is huge!
madake bamboo in The US - pioneering its use for shakuhachi
The famous Botanist David Fairchild (1869-1954) said that "P. Bambusoides [madake] was introduced by a one Andreas E. Moynelo probably in the late 1880's". It has since been planted more than any other running bamboo in The US.
Left - me and Jim in Alabama Right - me and Keiji in Hendersonville, North Carolina
As for my role in madake's history in The US, I am pioneering the use of it for the making of shakuhachi. My friends and fellow bamboo enthusiasts Jim and Keiji (haikubamboonursery.net) have been cultivating madake as well as other bamboos here in The US for more than three decades. Keiji and his wife Stefani live one county over from me on a mountain that he chose for its climate and micro-climate which is similar to parts of Japan. It is my honor to join them and a joy to call them my friends.
Harvesting madake bamboo for shakuhachi
Stepping into a mature madake bamboo grove is like entering another universe. You feel dwarfed by towering bamboo giants. A bamboo grove is a testament to the resilience of life on earth. It becomes apparent upon seeing the bamboo grove that the shakuhachi truly embodies the simplicity and versatility of bamboo. The shakuhachi is held upright with root facing down showing us how bamboo grows out in nature and we, also being a part of nature, utilize the bamboo's natural dimensions which serendipitously provide us with shakuhachi.It is also incredibly hard to dig up! Many grueling hours are spent digging up the root end for shakuhachi. Besides the roots of the stalk itself each root ball is connected to the "mother of bamboo" or the rhizome. The rhizome is the subterranean womb of the bamboo grove which gives birth to each stalk. The new shoots bud from the rhizome and soon breach the earth climbing toward heaven in order to process light into food. The whole grove is one large family tightly interconnected with one-another. Besides the rhizome from which a stalk sprouted there are often other rhizomes intermingling in the root ball making it even harder to dig up for shakuhachi. Rhizomes are unbelievably hard and have shattered my tools. As disruptive as this all sounds digging root ends for shakuhachi is actually good for the bamboo grove since only the old, dieing or dead stalks are dug for shakuhachi. Removing these old, dieing or dead stalks benefits the grove by preventing infections and infestations of insects.
digging shakuhachi is hard!
rhizomes - playing shakuhachi above rhizomes
"goma" madake dies and cures in nature giving it "spalting" marks
Like us, bamboo stalks typically die from some kind of infection like mold or fungi which start in at the roots. Ironically, it is these mold and fungi that create the lovely mottled splotches or "spalting" that shakuhachi enthusiasts have come to love. This is especially prevalent in "goma" pieces which die and "cure" out in the grove. For me, spalting highlights the natural process and life of bamboo in the shakuhachi.
Like us, bamboo stalks typically die from some kind of infection like mold or fungi which start in at the roots. Ironically, it is these mold and fungi that create the lovely mottled splotches or "spalting" that shakuhachi enthusiasts have come to love. This is especially prevalent in "goma" pieces which die and "cure" out in the grove. For me, spalting highlights the natural process and life of bamboo in the shakuhachi.
"Aburanuki" coal-curing madake for shakuhachi
After long grueling hours of harvesting and transporting the time finally comes for the next amazing process, "aburanuki". Earth, water, air and sun-light have enabled the bamboo to live out its life and now to make shakuhachi we employ fire."Fire-curing" is a bit of a misnomer as hot-coals are actually used because fire leaves soot marks on the shakuhachi. The heat from the coals sweats out moisture and cooks the juices of the bamboo making them more viscous like glue which in turn makes the bamboo fibers stronger and less likely to crack.
coal-curing "aburanuki" bamboo for shakuhachi
After performing "aburanuki" with hot-coals the prospective shakuhachi are placed in the full sun to dry for a month or more. Each piece has to be carefully and lovingly rotated to receive even sunlight so as to dry correctly.
They also have to be protected from the rain and other sources of excess moisture such as dew. After sun-drying the bamboo is placed indoors to further dry or "cure" until they can be worked with tools into shakuhachi.
Not all pieces make it out of these processes without cracking. Thankfully though cracks are not the end. Bamboo's one perceived weakness is just another strength. The same characteristic that causes bamboo to naturally crack also makes it easy to split for the crafting of many useful items. Cracks in shakuhachi can be closed with bindings of string which when done properly allow a shakuhachi to sing once again and for many lifetimes to come.
My shakuhachi making methodology
All of these experiences have distilled in me a great respect and love for bamboo and the shakuhachi. They have taught me to embrace the infinite variety of shakuhachi that the grove provides. Rather than seek to make heavily altered shakuhachi or only certain sizes of shakuhachi I choose to work with each individual piece of bamboo so as to bring out its unique timbre or "soul".
These kinds of shakuhachi are called "jinashi" and they are "natural" shakuhachi. They are the original shakuhachi of the Komuso monks.
In the end, I seek to celebrate bamboo by making shakuhachi that honor the spirit that was imparted to them by nature. Each piece of bamboo is a wonderful puzzle to be solved and every shakuhachi is irreplaceable. I find it amazing that shakuhachi are literally swaying in the breeze as living bamboo.
These kinds of shakuhachi are called "jinashi" and they are "natural" shakuhachi. They are the original shakuhachi of the Komuso monks.
In the end, I seek to celebrate bamboo by making shakuhachi that honor the spirit that was imparted to them by nature. Each piece of bamboo is a wonderful puzzle to be solved and every shakuhachi is irreplaceable. I find it amazing that shakuhachi are literally swaying in the breeze as living bamboo.
The "stage"
how I make a shakuhachi
There are many ways to make shakuhachi in order for them to suit certain types of music or players. For example, some shakuhachi makers craft shakuhachi with large tone holes and deep blowing edges which make for a louder sound, however, many traditional techniques on such shakuhachi become faint or impossible to play. On the other end of the spectrum are shakuhachi that are made with small tone holes and shallow blowing edges which can squeal or sound stuffy. Below I will go into detail of how I go about making well balanced root end shakuhachi for the playing of honkyoku music of The Edo period.
The highest goal for me is to make the least amount of changes to the bore as possible. I try to do most bore adjustments using subtraction or careful sanding and shaping. Sometimes additions are needed in which case I use pure bamboo powder and 100% safe glue. These adjustments are made to augment the "air flow" our acoustical impedance in the bore in order to increase the envelope of weak notes so that they can crescendo with a nice full tone. This is especially important on key notes on the shakuhachi which are the most expansive.
In the end it is all about balance for me. Making jinashi shakuhachi is a great puzzle all about balancing things just right for each particular shakuhachi.
Why I do not use lacquer/oils or inlays
In my work my goal is to celebrate bamboo and embrace its infinite variety. I seek to make my shakuhachi in the most natural way possible. I incorporate bamboo into every single step. I do not use any lacquer or oils in the bore as I prefer to leave the natural bamboo bare so that it can have its full effect on the sound. I do not inlay the blowing edge or do any inlaid bindings because they compromise the bamboo and provide no benefit beyond esthetics. I only use my own mixture of bamboo powder and 100% safe glue to make any additions to the bore for the purpose of adjusting or improving the sound. I also use a bamboo powder and glue mixture to repair damages to the blowing edge and move holes. I offer lifetime free repairs on all of my root end shakuhachi as well as economically priced repairs for all of my non-root end shakuhachi. To read more about these subjects visit my Dojo page.The tone holes - going back to the old way of opening them slowly by hand
Back in the Edo period competent makers were also players who would naturally make shakuhachi that were well suited to the music they played which was mainly honkyoku. They also had to open the holes slowly by hand which gives the maker a more intimate connection and understanding of the holes. Today, however, most all makers use drill bits followed by some undercutting. In my work I went back to the old method of opening the holes slowly by hand without the use of drill bits. This has given me insight into the placement of the holes and their effects on the timbre and playability or capabilities of a shakuhachi especially for the playing of honkyoku music. I meticulously shape each hole while checking techniques to insure that they not only work but perform well.The blowing edge or "utaguchi"
The depth of the utaguchi or blowing edge should not be too deep or too shallow for ideal playing of Edo period honkyoku and for the execution of deep meri techniques such as ro no dai meri which is a whole step below the fundamental (1.8 "D" should play "C" for ro no dai meri). Too deep of a blowing edge can make deep meri notes hard to play. Conversely, a very shallow blowing edge can make notes stuffy or sputter. For my shakuhachi I make medium sized blowing edges for good volume tone and execution of meri notes.The chin rest
The amount to which the chin rest is carved down is of the utmost importance in order to have good posture and tone. With the majority of shakuhachi chin rests the player has to either tilt their heads down and/or raise their arms up higher in order to get a good tone. I carefully carve my chin rests to insure that a solid full tone can be achieved with proper comfortable posture.The bore
The bore has the largest effect on the sound of a shakuhachi, specifically, the volume or size of the bore in relation to the length of the shakuhachi. Selecting bamboo with the right length to volume ratio for the desired outcome is paramount. This is one of the reason I harvest all of my own bamboo. Next is the shaping or adjusting of the bore such as how much the nodes are removed, if any additions or subtractions are made, and if lacquers are used. Each piece of bamboo has a unique precious voice and to me lacquer often causes too drastic of a change. I prefer the warm natural sound of the bamboo.The highest goal for me is to make the least amount of changes to the bore as possible. I try to do most bore adjustments using subtraction or careful sanding and shaping. Sometimes additions are needed in which case I use pure bamboo powder and 100% safe glue. These adjustments are made to augment the "air flow" our acoustical impedance in the bore in order to increase the envelope of weak notes so that they can crescendo with a nice full tone. This is especially important on key notes on the shakuhachi which are the most expansive.
In the end it is all about balance for me. Making jinashi shakuhachi is a great puzzle all about balancing things just right for each particular shakuhachi.
To purchase shakuhachi listed below contact me at jk@flutedojo.com or call 828-348-4488
I am also happy to give you a live demo over skype of any shakuhachi for sale.
Here you will find shakuhachi for sale from 1.X to 1.8. For other lengths click a different "tab" above.
To purchase shakuhachi listed below contact me at jk@flutedojo.com or call 828-348-4488
1.5 "F4" medium bore $1,500
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 1.5 "F4" has a medium bore with powerful happy sound.It has 10mm tone holes placed in-line.
So this shakuhachi can be played by either right or left handed people.
It is a really beautiful looking and sounding shakuhachi. It has a very robust energetic sound.
1.8 "D4" medium bore $850
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 1.8 "D4" has a medium bore with a powerful sound.
1.8 "D4" standard bore $1,500
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 1.8 "D4" has a standard sized bore with sweet clear sound.
Here you will find shakuhachi for sale from 1.9 to 2.2. For other lengths click a different "tab" above.
To purchase shakuhachi listed below contact me at jk@flutedojo.com or call 828-348-4488
2.0 "C4" standard bore $2,500
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 2.0 "C4" has a standard bore with huge robust sound.It has 12~mm tone holes placed closer together in-line using my special method.
So this shakuhachi can be played by either right or left handed people.
I can also move the holes for free.
There was a surface crack which is bound. It has perfect nodal placement/aesthetics
It is a really beautiful looking and sounding shakuhachi. It has a very powerful feel.
2.2 "Bb3" medium-wide bore $1,250
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 2.2 "Bb3" has a medium-wide bore with lots of bass that you can feel.It has 12mm tone holes placed closer together in-line using my special method.
So this shakuhachi can be played by either right or left handed people.
I can also move the holes for free.
There was a fine surface crack which is bound. It has perfect nodal placement/aesthetics
It is a really beautiful looking and sounding shakuhachi. It has a very open feel.
Here you will find shakuhachi for sale from 2.4 to 3.X. For other lengths click a different "tab" above.
To purchase shakuhachi listed below contact me at jk@flutedojo.com or call 828-348-4488
2.4 "A3" medium bore $1,500
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 2.4 "A3" has a medium bore with huge powerful tone.It has 12~mm tone holes placed in-line using my special closer method.
So this shakuhachi can be played by either right or left handed people.
I can move the holes free of charge if needed.
Ha and Ah use the alternative method of closing the 4th hole Ri.
2.4 "A3" medium bore $2,250
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 2.4 "A3" has a medium bore with huge powerful tone.It has 12~mm tone holes placed in-line using my special closer method.
So this shakuhachi can be played by either right or left handed people.
I can move the holes free of charge if needed.
2.4 "A3" medium-wide bore "goma" $3,500
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 2.4 "A3" has a medium-wide bore with powerful deep tone.It has 12~13mm tone holes placed in-line using my special closer method.
So this shakuhachi can be played by either right or left handed people.
I can move the holes free of charge if needed.
This shakuhachi is made from rare "goma" madake which dies and cures out in nature.
Despite being subjected to the elements for years it has never cracked.
It also has wonderful "spalting" marks from the natural dieing process.
"Goma" is also light-weight despite being thick, this one weighs as much as a 1.8.
2.7 "G3" standard bore $1,200
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 2.7 "G3" has a medium-wide bore with lots of bass that you can feel.It has 10-12mm tone holes placed closer together using my special method.
So right or left handed people can play this shakuhachi.
I can also move the holes for free.
Ni shi go no Ha (3rd octave) is played using the alternative method of closing #4.
2.9 "F3" medium-wide bore $1,000
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 2.9 "F3" has a medium-wide bore with lots of bass that you can feel.It has 10-11mm tone holes placed closer together and off-set for a righty using my special method.
I can also move the holes for free.
It has a very nice pure feeling. Ni shi go no Ha (3rd octave) is played using the alternative method of closing #4.
3.0 "E3" wide bore "goma" "hocchiku" $2,250
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 3.0 "E3" has a wide bore with deep rich tone.It has 11~mm tone holes off-set for standard right hand on bottom playing.
I can move the holes free of charge if needed.
This shakuhachi is made from rare "goma" bamboo which dies and cures out in nature.
Despite being subjected to the elements for years it has never cracked.
It also has wonderful "spalting" marks from the natural dieing process.
"Goma" is also light-weight despite being thick, this one weighs as much as a 2.0 or plastic Yuu.
3.0 "E3" medium-wide bore "goma" "hocchiku" $4,250
Scroll down to see the video and all of the pictures
This 3.0 "E3" has a medium-wide bore with deep rich tone.The tone holes are off-set for standard right hand on bottom playing.
I can move the holes free of charge if needed.
This shakuhachi is made from rare "goma" madake bamboo which dies and cures out in nature.
Despite being subjected to the elements for years it has only some small cracks at the root.
I bound the bottom to prevent the cracks from moving and can bind the whole flute for free.
It also has wonderful "spalting" marks from the natural dieing process.
"Goma" is also light-weight despite being thick, this one weighs around as much as a 2.0 or plastic Yuu.
